The seafood they send me is extraordinary. I get sea bass and halibut and cod so fresh that, at the right angle, you can see a rainbow playing across the flesh. We marvel at it. I get forty black bass that are all the same size, which is critical to dishes at the French Laundry. The scallops are still twitching, because they were practically just shucked and haven't settled down. For a cook, that's an exciting thing to see.
Thomas Keller - The French Laundry Cookbook
